Piasa presents one of the world’s most important collections dedicated to Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo, fashion icon and founder of the label Comme des Garçons. More than 500 lots gathered over ten years by Japanese collector Hiroaki Narita, who also founded Japan’s first auction house dedicated to design.
Iconoclastic and punk since her debut in 1969 with Comme des Garçons, Rei Kawakubo remains faithful to the principle of “Kachikan,” often translated as “value,” but which more accurately expresses a desire to enhance an object or a state of mind. The designer enjoys breaking norms and often declares that “Her energy comes from her rebellious spirit and thirst for freedom.”
From her first show at Tokyo Fashion Week in 1975, she took a radical stance by imposing black during the height of the Flower Power era. The anti-fashion movement was launched, soon followed by other designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Helmut Lang. Revered ever since, Kawakubo—who insists that “Fashion is not art; there’s no point in comparing them, their purposes are different”—remains the only designer alongside Yves Saint Laurent to be honored during her lifetime by the MET in New York, in 2017, with a solo exhibition (Rei Kawakubo / Comme des Garçons, Art of the In-Between).
Among the many collectors devoted to Rei Kawakubo, the over 500-piece collection assembled by Japanese collector Hiroaki Narita stands out for its unique approach. “Hiroaki Narita acts somewhat like a researcher,” notes Paul Viguier, head of the collection sale. “He wanted to carry out an archival work, which led him to acquire pieces from each of Kawakubo’s legendary collections: Pirates (1981), Noir (1988), Metamorphosis (1994), and Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body (1997).”
Among the highlights presented during Paris Fashion Week from September 26 to 30 are Metamorphosis, Flowering Clothes collection, Autumn-Winter 1998 (€2,000 / €3,000) and Refresh the Spirit, Spring-Summer 1990 (€600 / €800).
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© Simon Narita
